An Everyday Thayer

Note: I received this pattern and a payment to contribute to Grainline Studio’s Sew Visible project on Instagram

I was smitten with the Thayer Jacket the minute Grainline Studio released it. Chore jackets have been a big trend this year and last, and this one had such thoughtful and well-designed details, including drafting for a D cup, in-seam pockets at the chest, angled hip pockets, and a full lining. When offered the pattern as part of Grainline’s Sew Visible project, I jumped at the chance, even though finishing it up in November meant it wouldn’t get much wear right away. Well, so I thought – with the incredibly (concerningly) mild winter we’ve had, this is my most-worn make in a very long time.

I made my Thayer from a greyish teal canvas from SR Harris, lined with Kaufman Shetland Flannel in Ocean. I love this flannel, which is cozy and thick and washes up so soft. The pattern suggests using a slippery flannel-backed fabric like kasha satin for the sleeves. Rather than wait for it to come in, I simply layered my flannel with a silky poly I had in my stash.

The construction on this jacket is so clever, especially the chest pockets which open in the upper yoke seam and have a buttonhole built into the chest princess seam. I made a size 22 graded to a 24 at the hips, and it fits beautifully through the body with plenty of room to spare for a sweater under.

I was also pleasantly surprised by the generous cut of the sleeves, which would have fit my biceps even without addition — unprecedented! To give plenty of room to wear with bulky clothes under, I did go ahead and add around 1″ total to the width of the sleeve. This was made much easier by the two-piece sleeve construction, a new technique to me but one I really love for movement and fit. I also added about 2″ in length to the sleeves, which still come up a bit short. I have long arms, but this still is a downside in otherwise excellent pattern drafting.

I’ve worn this jacket basically every day above 45 degrees (and a few mis-judged colder days!) I originally wanted to avoid a classic jean jacket style, but now that I’ve had a chance to wear this version, I can’t wait to make a denim one lined with buffalo-check flannel (maybe with a sherling collar?)

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