When Cashmerette reached out to me about making their newest pattern, I happily joined in. I’ve longtime loved their pattern drafting and have been excited to try out a pants pattern from them — enter the Calder pants! As part of this preview program, Cashmerette provided me with a free copy of the pattern and with fabric from Blackbird Fabrics.
I picked the viscose linen slub in lime zest from Blackbird, which I was worried would be too thin. But it actually has some lovely heft to it and feels really good on the body.
The Calder pants are medium-wide leg pant with a flat front and elastic-waist back. Like Cashermette’s other bottoms patterns, they come in two body shapes – the “apple” and “pear.” I made view A, the cropped version, in a “pear” size 22 graded to a 24 at the hip. Because my waist is closer to a 20, I cut the inside elastic a little shorter than suggested. I did mess up by accidentally forgetting to sew up the back darts. I thought I made a cutting mistake and ended up aggressively easing the pants back into the waistband and had finished before I realized my mistake! It turned out okay but next time I’ll make an effort to remember that step.
I really like the combination of a flat front, which gives a more polished effect, with the comfort of an elastic-waist back. These are really comfortable to sit and move in!
I also really like the construction of the pockets, which are inserted into the side seam and secured in the waistband. The pattern also includes a pocket facing that allows you to use a lighter-weight or patterned fabric for the pocket without it being overly visible when your pockets open slightly.
No matter the amount of ease, though, I’ve found that my generous booty and belly mean strain on the crotch seam of pretty much any pair of pants. So I’ve developed some strategies for reinforcing that seam to avoid the dreaded seam popping.
If the seam allowances have to be finished separately and pressed open (for instance in a pattern with a cross-over front), I will run a second line of stitching just inside of the first, about 1/16″ away, to give that extra little bit of reinforcement, and will backstitch over the intersection point at the crotch center.
Wherever possible, though, I prefer to finish the seam allowances together with a serger, press to one side, and topstitch a scant 1/8″ away from the seam, catching the seam allowances. This essentially means three lines of stitching on this seam that’s under plenty of stress. In cases where I don’t want that topstitching very visible, as with the Calders, I’ll topstitch just along the bottom portion of the curve, pulling the thread ends through and knotting them on the inside. It’ll be totally hidden under my body that way.
I think all my fellow fatties know the horror of the sound and feeling of a butt seam popping — ask me about my pre-teen swimsuit bottoms popping at a water park birthday party! This extra bit of reinforcing gives such comfort.
I very much recommend the Calder pants pattern! I’m excited to make a pair of shorts this summer.