A second Kalle, this time in the dress length! My mom brought me this classic green gingham, just enough to make this dress; it’s a little bit crisper than the drapey mystery blend I used for my last tunic, so it stands away from my body a bit more.
Like my last version, this is a size 18 graded to a 20 with a small FBA. This time around, I converted the darts to French darts (on a steeper diagonal angle) so that I could drop the sleeves down more. I have big biceps, and even with the generous ease of this pattern, the sleeves bind up a little in my last version. With an extra inch of space here, they’re perfect! I also brought the shoulder seam forward half an inch to stop the collar from dropping back, and it’s worked perfectly. I’m really happy with the fit now, though I think the next version will be longer and thus more teaching appropriate!
Honestly, I suppose I could do a sway back adjustment to get rid of a little of the pooling at my lower back, but the back is so loose and open and my butt so generous that I don’t much care. In movement, of course, everything works!
I did the inverted pleat on the back, and as you can see, cut my top collar, popover placket, and sleeve cuffs on the bias, which adds more visual interest. I also added bias-cut pockets at the hip using the chest pocket pattern piece. Chest pockets never really work for me, what with all that chest pushing things out of them, but I love the look of a low hip pocket. I would have liked these ones to be big and oversized, but I only had just enough fabric to cut them at this size. I used pearlized snaps rather than buttons because I happened to have just enough of them around.
Have you made a Kalle yet? What adjustments or changes did you do?